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While abroad, be a daring diner
St. Louis Post-Dispatch (MO)
June 20, 2004
Author: GIG GWIN
Special to the Post-Dispatch Estimated
printed pages: 6
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* Eating exotic food in other parts of the world can be scary, exciting
and rewarding. One of the joys of traveling around the world is the
opportunity to try new and exciting food. Thanks to my parents, who
taught me to be adventurous at the dinner table, I can appreciate a
plate of haggis in Scotland, sea eels in Tonga, conch fritters in the
Bahamas or roasted rooster comb in Portugal. Of course, I have to admit
my courage was tested in Mongolia a few years back when the guide I
had hired pulled the car off a countryside road and asked if I'd like
to visit an encampment of nomads. While I hesitated to answer, a group
of curious youngsters surrounded the car. I mustered a smile and was
escorted into a tent in which one family lived. As my guide and the
bearded elder talked, it became clear that my presence was causing
a good deal of excitement. The conversation became animated as the
elder discussed the problems he was having with mountain lions attacking
his cattle and yak. I sat on a low stool, observing a pot of bubbling
white liquid covered by an unappetizing yellow film. Black flies converged
on the surface. Soon my worst fear was realized as the elder motioned
toward the pot and back to me. I was being offered a bowl of yak soup.
I can't recall ever being less attracted to food, but I couldn't refuse
my hosts' hospitality. The first sip went down the hatch, and it wasn't
all that bad, although my lips began to numb a bit. As I took more
sips, the numbing expanded to my chin and cheeks, for reasons I never
understood. I looked the elder in the eyes, held up my bowl and said, "You
know, I might have another bowl of that white stuff." The second bowl
went down more smoothly, although I developed a twitch in my right
eye. Trying to be sympathetic to my host, I suggested we start a hunting
safari to eliminate the lion menace. Wisely, my guide gently intervened
and led me back to the car and my hotel. Fortunately, most food in
foreign lands is much more appealing. I have eaten food from every
corner of the world, from local bistros to elegant restaurants in Paris.
As explorers of new places around the world, we travelers should consider
food one of the true embodiments of a region or country. Dining abroad
brings out the best in people. We learn new recipes, new tastes and
often experience a whole different style of eating, but it can only
be done if you start with a spirit of adventure. Are you a little timid
when it comes to eating? Are you someone who is not very comfortable
when a menu is presented and you're faced with an abundance of strange
words? Do you tend to shy away and ask for something simple? Have you
fallen into the hamburger-or-pizza rut? If you have, it might be time
to enter the delicious world of new food and, particularly, local dishes.
Remember, if you're somewhere else in the world and local food is available,
it's probably a dish that has been around for hundreds, if not thousands,
of years. It might have a flavor that's fairly compatible with your
tastes, or it might be new and exciting. It may take you back to another
time, and that local dish might become a part of your treasure trove
of culinary knowledge. Do your homework When you find yourself traveling
to a new country, try to make dining an important event in your trip.
Before you go, check the Internet or grab a book and do some reading
on the local cuisine. After you've arrived, if you're in a fairly large
hotel, the best way to assimilate local food is via a luncheon buffet.
If it's a good restaurant, it will be replete with a variety of choices.
Ask the waiter or maitre d' about the choice of dishes. Sometimes the
restaurant will have little name cards to help you with your decision.
This also gives you a chance to try a little of everything. If you're
going out, you may want to choose a restaurant that is recommended
by the locals. I try to find a place where families eat. If you look
for an establishment with grandmothers, kids, aunts and uncles gathered
around, you have probably found yourself a good place to eat with fair
prices and a menu that will suit your palate. It is also helpful to
ask around for recommendations from your hotel staff and concierge.
Explain your price range because a great gourmet meal, totally out
of your budget, may leave you with a bad taste and grievous harm to
your wallet. On the other hand, if you can afford a great meal, consider
the evening an investment in your travel dreams and memories. If needed,
make a reservation. That prevents a lot of extra bar time, but if you
find yourself in a holding area, try the local drink. I learned to
enjoy ouzo in Greece, a pisco sour in Peru and plum wine in Japan.
Another rule of thumb is that any meal tastes a little better if you're
hungry. The French almost totally ignore breakfast, so when their lunch
or late dinner approaches, they've eaten less and they appreciate their
main courses a little more.
What to wear
It doesn't hurt to blend in with the locals,
particularly in your dress. If men are wearing
slacks or jackets, then do the same. Remember,
blue jeans with white tennis shoes say you
are an American. If the dining is casual, that's
fine, but consider that white tennies announce
you as a foreigner. In some warm climates -
Brazil, for example - they frown on coat and
tie. You will find their dress is more casual,
with open-style, usually elegant shirts. In
colder climates, sweaters are always a good
idea. But if coat and tie are the norm, that's
what men should wear, and women should wear
an appropriate style. There's always the chance
that buying a local outfit could be one of
the highlights of your trip. The opposite of
being too casual is to be overdressed. You
can stick out like a sore thumb and can look
a little clumsy or even pretentious. When the
food is presented, notice anything that is
special. Sometimes the chef or restaurant takes
great pride in the colors of different foods
and selections. A vivid display of colors can
add to the evening enjoyment, although food
with blue color never appeals to me. A word
of caution: In Third World countries, especially
in countries whose governments aren't strict
on hygiene, a meal at a roadside stand or grungy
eatery may be a disaster. In 35 years of traveling
internationally, I've rarely been affected
by bad food. Everyone's digestive system works
a little differently. My bad experiences took
place in Mexico and India. These two countries
have, in the past, lacked proper sanitary laws.
Both countries are improving, but there's good
reason for the terms Montezuma's Revenge and
Delhi Belly. A good strategy for staying healthy
is to wash your hands before eating, drink
liquids only from bottles or cans and choose
a respectable place to eat.
Exotic food
What is an exotic food? Is it barbecued rattlesnake
from Texas or precious truffles in southern
France or flying fish in Barbados? That kind
of food may be over the line for you. The same
goes for alligator steak in Florida, reindeer
meat in Finland or ostrich in South Africa.
Food that is completely off the wall is sometimes
more of a challenge than a delicacy. For example,
lots of people who have been to Hawaii refer
to poi, a white side dish, as wallpaper paste.
(Hawaiians have been known to respond that
people from the mainland must eat a lot of
wallpaper paste.) In any event, it's an unusual
food, made from the taro plant. Other uncommon
food includes haggis. It's one of those "sounds
bad, tastes good" foods. Haggis is made from
the innards of a sheep, but you can easily
become accustomed to its flavor, particularly
with morning eggs. The Chinese seem to think
everything is exotic and a delicacy, so if
you go to a Chinese market, don't be surprised
to see baskets of live turtles, frogs, snakes,
cats, dogs and the ever-popular fish eyes.
India also has an exotic menu. Since many Hindus
are vegetarians, they have many wonderful nonmeat
dishes spiced with curry for a flavor that,
once you become accustomed, will bring you
back for seconds. My biggest surprise in exotic
food was ostrich. It tastes more like beef
than bird, and it has a delicious flavor. Ostriches
are being raised internationally and becoming
a regular in many fine restaurants. My least
enjoyable food: Korean kimchi (hot pickled
cabbage). Between the taste and smell, it can
stop a charging water buffalo in its tracks.
One of my favorite eating experiences was in
Nairobi, Kenya. Near the airport is a restaurant
called the Carnivore. It offers a large selection
of wild game roasted over charcoal and carved
at your table. Slices of hot, steaming crocodile,
antelope and zebra are rotated along with more
mundane beef, chicken and pork. Camel also
is on the menu. It's so tough, you can't chew
it down. It's like beef-flavored chewing gum,
and you never quite get through it. Eating
local dishes in other countries is fun and
rewarding, with a few exceptions. Eating camel
is one of them.
Caption:
(1) Color Photo by GIG GWIN - An arrangement of shrimp at the Intercontinental Carlton Cannes Hotel on the Cote d'Azure in France. (2) Color Photo - Like buffets everywhere, this one in Africa presents an opportunity to try a variety of food. (3) Color Photo - A serving of creme brulee at the Carlton. (4) Photo - Gig Gwin enjoys a traditional Thai meal in Bangkok, Thailand. photo Edition: Five Star Lift
Section: Travel & Leisure
Copyright (c) 2004 St. Louis Post-Dispatch
Record Number: 1000023847
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